Traditional costume glossary

Dirndls - Blouses - Women's traditional costumes

dirndl blouse

The dirndl blouse is worn with a dirndl or bodice and is characterized by its very short cut, which just covers the wearer's arms and chest. It is therefore cropped, but this is not visible under a dirndl or bodice and is desirable so that there is no additional layer of fabric at the waist. They are available in different versions without sleeves, with short, half-length, and long sleeves. They can be made from various materials such as cotton, silk, or polyester. A distinction is also made between blouses that can be gathered at the neckline with ties and those that are closed with buttons. Recently, dirndl blouses have often had a stand-up collar.

Carmen blouse

The Carmen blouse is a sleeveless, off-the-shoulder blouse.

traditional blouse

Traditional blouses (not to be confused with dirndl blouses!) are available in three sleeve lengths: short, three-quarter, and long sleeves. There is also a distinction between puff sleeves, which are the more traditional option, and straight sleeves, which are very simple in design. The traditional blouse is worn with leather pants, jeans, or skirts, often has a very playful look, and in some cases features ruffles. It is mainly made of cotton. The sleeve lengths vary from short, three-quarter, and long to those that only have straps.

dirndl

The word Dirndl actually refers to a young unmarried woman, hence the original name Dirndlgwand, which has been shortened to Dirndl over time. In the original traditional costume, a distinction is still made in some regions between the clothing worn by married women, unmarried women, and widows. There are further differences depending on the occasion, e.g., for dance events or church holidays.

The dirndl should always fit as closely as possible to the body. Dirndls are usually distinguished between square necklines, round necklines, and heart-shaped necklines. The length is indicated by the designation “R ...”. R 60 ends above the knee, R 70 below the knee, R 80 ends above the ankle, and R95 ends at the ankle.

An apron is worn with the dirndl, the length of which is matched to the skirt. The apron should be 2-3 cm shorter than the dirndl skirt. Bow on the right: the lady is taken. Bow on the left: the lady is single. Bow at the back: the lady is a widow.

Dirndls are fastened with a zipper, hooks, or eyelets, and often have lacing or a silver chain at the front. A dirndl pocket is traditionally incorporated into the skirt under the apron at the front or on the side.

hat

Hats come in all shapes and colors, which women like to combine with dirndls or lederhosen. Whether it's a classic or modern traditional hat, everyone can wear whatever they like. Many hats are also decorated with feathers or other accessories. Formerly used for protection from the sun and rain, hats are now increasingly becoming a fashion accessory.

collar

A choker necklace is a piece of jewelry that forms part of traditional Bavarian and Austrian dress. It is worn close to the neck. The choker necklace is said to have originated in the Salzburg region. For centuries, iodine deficiency in the region led to an increase in thyroid enlargement, known as goiter. Since at least the 19th century, many women have worn choker necklaces on festive occasions to cover either the goiter itself or the scars left after goiter surgery. A simple version consists of a velvet ribbon several centimeters wide, decorated with pearls, gemstones, or embroidery. Wealthy women in Salzburg wore the more luxurious version, in which many thin gold or silver chains are connected by bars to prevent twisting or tangling. In the middle, at the front of the neck, there is an elaborately crafted centerpiece. This is often richly ornamented and additionally set with precious and semi-precious stones. Regardless of its original purpose, the necklace has become part of various regional traditional costumes.

Women's leather pants

Traditionally, women also wore leather pants in the past, for example, when they had to do heavy, dirty work. Nowadays, women's leather pants are available in all colors and, of course, in different lengths and types of leather. Anything goes.

bag

A handbag is a must-have accessory for a dirndl. Here, too, there is a wide variety of styles and shapes with many traditional patterns. From tote bags to shoulder bags made of leather, felt, or fabric, there is something for everyone.

petticoat

The petticoat is traditionally part of underwear, but nowadays it is a great visual addition that makes the dirndl swing and keeps the wearer warm on cold days, both then and now. The petticoat is worn under the dirndl and should show no more than two fingers' width.

cardigan

The traditional jackets worn with dirndls are usually short and keep the wearer warm around the upper body without covering the high-waisted skirt. They can be made from a variety of materials and come in different colors. On cold days, a jacket made of loden, boiled wool, linen, or knitwear is worn with a dirndl or lederhosen.

snow-white collar

The Snow White collar is a high stand-up collar that fits close to the neck and sometimes reaches the hairline. The collar originally comes from Spanish court attire, which has influenced traditional Bavarian costume on several occasions. The Snow White collar visually elongates the figure and is therefore very popular. In comparison, a classic dirndl has a lower back, which shortens the upper body. A heart-shaped neckline in combination with a Snow White collar makes the décolleté appear larger.

corset

The bodice (also known as a corset), which originated in the early 16th century, is a garment that encircles the upper body. In the past, this type of upper body clothing was very popular because it made a woman's figure appear even slimmer when laced tightly. The bodice is fastened either with lacing, hooks, buttons, or a zipper. The bodice can be worn with a traditional skirt, leather pants, or jeans. A dirndl or traditional blouse is usually worn under the bodice.

Dirndl BH

The dirndl bra is designed to accentuate the wearer's cleavage. There are plain versions as well as bras with lace. The half-cup bra is the version that does not show under the blouse.

Charini

A charini is worn with a dirndl. It is usually a silver chain with various pendants such as old silver coins, hunting trophies, and crystals. Charinis are traditionally collected over many years and have personal significance for the wearer. There should always be an odd number of pendants.

Leather pants - Shirts - Hat - Shoes

leather pants

Leather pants come in different styles, including short leather pants and long knee-length pants. They consist of different cut pieces: the waistband, the cuff (cuff above the bib), the bib waistband (cuff above the bib), the cuff head (where the cuff ends at the bottom), the bundle (around the knees), and the knife pocket cuff (at the side seam).

short leather pants

Short leather trousers were traditionally worn from May 1 to Kirchweih (Allerweltskirter, on the weekend around October 20). Regional differences can be found in the cut of short leather trousers, with a distinction being made between Bavarian and Austrian trousers. In Austria, the pants are usually quilted and may sometimes feature a plate seam or Bürserl. They usually have buttons at the bottom of the legs. In Upper Bavaria, the pants are usually flat-stitched and finished with a colored band, although the quilted and buttoned version is also not uncommon.

Long knee-length trousers

Knee-length trousers were worn during the cold season between the parish fair and around May 1, or as needed and on occasions when the knees had to be covered (e.g., weddings, balls, etc.). Traditionally, these trousers were usually black with white stitching or in dark brown tones. From the 1970s onwards, saddle stitching—also known as Salzburg plate stitching—made its way into Bavarian traditional costume. Previously, plate stitching was only common in the Berchtesgadener Land region and Austria.

long leather pants

Long leather pants are a fashion trend that has only found its way into our wardrobes in recent decades. They are a natural alternative to jeans and cotton pants, very durable, and well suited for cold days.

knife bag strap

The knife bag is a small pouch that was formerly used to carry cutlery. Over time, the cutlery was reduced to just a hunting knife. Even today, knives are rarely carried, but the pouch has remained.

Charivari

The charivari symbolizes diversity and chaos. It is usually a silver chain with various pendants such as silver coins, hunting trophies, and crystals. Charivaris are collected over many years and have personal significance for the wearer. The pendants should always be an odd number. Some examples: the blue amethyst protects against drunkenness, the silver coin guarantees wealth and prosperity, and deer antlers represent potency. Charivaris are now also made from metal alloys that give the visual impression of a silver charivari.

leather pants wearer

In the past, classic suspenders were bar suspenders, usually made of dark brown or black smooth leather. They often featured the Bavarian coat of arms or a carved stag rose. The Allgäu and Werdenfelser Land regions have always been exceptions. There, wide fabric straps were pulled over leather, decorated with edelweiss in the Allgäu region. In contrast, in the Werdenfelser Land region, they feature floral patterns, usually consisting of edelweiss, alpine rose, and gentian. The so-called Norwegerträger first became popular in Munich in the 1950s and then throughout Bavaria.

Norwegerträger

The "Norwegerträger" can be recognized by its V-shape and is only worn with knee-length trousers. At the front, the bib is attached to the buttons provided for this purpose, which are located next to and on the inside of the bib. At the back, the bib is crossed over and fastened to the buttons on the waistband of the trousers.

Stegträger

The "Stegträger" has a bib in the middle and can be worn with both shorts and knee-length pants. The length of the straps is measured from one of the front buttons across the shoulder to the back button.

shirt

The traditional costume shirt is white with a stand-up collar and a bar embroidered with the initials. Over time, the shapes and styles of the shirts have changed. There are shirts with stand-up or lay-down collars, with a bar or buttoned through, white or checked, and in different colors and fabrics. The sleeves are usually rolled up, unless a suit or jacket is worn over the shirt. The top two buttons always remain open. To determine the size, the collar width is measured around the collar below the larynx.

stand-up collar

The stand-up collar is characterized by its upright collar; unlike the lay-down collar, it does not have a collar flap that folds down. This collar can be worn open, closed at the top, or with a bow tie. The high, stiff collar gives the wearer an elegant look. The stand-up collar shirt became established in society as early as the 19th century. It was worn particularly by wealthy people, who also opted for individual stand-up collars and attached them to their shirts as an accessory. The sleeves are usually rolled up, unless a suit or jacket is worn over the top. The top two buttons always remain undone.

laying collar

The lay-down collar is the most common type of collar today. The term “lay-down collar” encompasses all typical collar types, such as the shark, cutaway, and Kent collars. Straight, pointed collar ends are typical of the wide lay-down collar. The lay-down collar is a classic and is therefore one of the most formal and inconspicuous collar styles. It is therefore universally applicable and goes with almost any tie knot.

SlimFit

A SlimFit cut is a figure-hugging cut of clothing. In the case of a men's shirt, this means that the shirt has a tailored cut.

Gilet

The waistcoat (gilet) is waist-length and is worn over a shirt. The term gilet comes from Switzerland and Austria. Waistcoats have black lining on the back. There are now versions where the front and back are made of the same fabric. The waistcoat is usually worn open with lederhosen, whereas it is worn closed under a janker or traditional costume suit.

belt

Belts are divided into belt buckles and ___belts. Belt buckles were preferred by hunters immediately after the turn of the century, as the clasps on suspenders often got in the way when quickly getting into position. The patterns on the buckles vary depending on the belt. There are also belts with quill embroidery, where the leather is embroidered with split quills from the upper tail feathers of peacocks.

hats

The hat not only protects against sun and rain, but has also been a symbol of freedom since ancient times and has always played an important role among the rural population. This is why Bavarians keep their hats on while eating and only take them off when entering a church. Classic traditional hats are made of rabbit suede, usually in dark green or black, and come in various shapes and with different trimmings. Green or black traditional hats are usually decorated with chamois beards, cockerel feathers, eagle feathers, or heron feathers. Genuine traditional hats, which are produced from rabbit hair in a complex process, are usually very expensive and valuable. However, cheaper versions in various shapes made of wool felt are also often available, which also provide good protection against the weather. Felt hats are usually considerably cheaper and are very popular as work or festival hats.

jacket

Linen jackets, known as Schilf or Jägerleinen, are usually worn in light colors during the summer months as they are lighter and more wind-permeable, making them comfortable to wear. Their cut and shape are similar to those of loden jackets. Loden jackets Loden is made from wool threads that are woven together and then felted with the aid of water and heat. Loden is water-repellent to a certain extent. For this reason, loden jackets are popular as all-weather jackets. In Bavaria, they are often worn in the high-necked Tegernsee style.

Scarf / neckerchief

A beautiful scarf or neckerchief is often worn with traditional clothing. The scarf is best worn with a more elegant outfit, while the neckerchief is better suited to a more traditional outfit. The scarf also has a warming function.

Haferlschuh

The classic traditional shoe for both men and women is the Haferl shoe with a profiled sole. It can be worn with lederhosen as well as a dirndl. Haferl shoes are distinguished by the following features: double-stitched construction (connection between the upper part of the shoe and the sole), low-cut upper, toe cap with right-angled edge, upturned toe cap, high toe cap (distance between the toe cap and the ground), raised heel, no upper lining, rubber tread sole.

traditional costume shoes

The classic traditional shoe for both men and women is the Haferl shoe with a profiled sole. It can be worn with lederhosen as well as a dirndl. Haferl shoes are distinguished by the following features: double-stitched construction (connection between the upper part of the shoe and the sole), low-cut upper, toe cap with right-angled edge, upturned toe cap, high toe cap (distance between the toe cap and the ground), raised heel, no upper lining, rubber tread sole.

Stockings for knee breeches

These stockings are always worn with knee-length trousers. They are usually long and made of wool, linen, or cotton. On cold days, the stockings can be pulled up over the lederhosen for extra warmth.

Stockings to go with short leather pants

The socks worn with short leather trousers are traditionally cuffed socks, which are made in two colors and often feature embroidery from the calf to the heel. However, they are also available as knee socks in a single color. So-called Loferl, which consist of a sock and a calf section, can also be worn with short pants. In some areas of Bavaria, the calf sections are also worn without socks.

embroidery

There are different types of embroidery, namely flat embroidery and quilting. The first quilted trousers can be traced back to the Baroque period, whereas flat embroidery only became popular in the 1870s.

Fabrics - Embroidery - Tanning

Acetate

Acetate is often used in the manufacture of blouses, petticoat linings, dresses, and underwear. Textiles made from acetate are almost as comfortable to wear as natural silk. They are very soft, comfortable to wear, and very wrinkle-resistant, as the fabric absorbs very little moisture. On the other hand, textiles containing acetate can easily become electrostatically charged. Textiles containing acetate have a matte sheen, drape very loosely, and retain their shape well. As acetate garments are very sensitive to heat, they should only be washed at a maximum of 30 degrees in the machine or by hand. These garments must not be put in the dryer under any circumstances, as too much heat would damage them. It is best to wash them on a gentle cycle and leave them to dry on a hanger while still damp. Ironing is also not necessary.

cotton

Cotton is a natural fiber with excellent properties. Cotton garments can absorb a great deal of moisture, as well as salts, acids, and skin oils. They still feel dry even when they have absorbed 20% of their weight in water and only start to drip when they are more than 65% saturated. Cotton fibers are even more tear-resistant when wet than when dry, which is why they are very easy to wash. White or colorfast cotton items can be boiled and ironed at high temperatures, properties that are important in terms of hygiene. Cotton textiles provide little thermal insulation, but are breathable. They feel soft, are very comfortable to wear against the skin, do not felt and do not build up static electricity. However, cotton fibers are not very elastic and crease easily. They shrink when washed.

quill embroidery

In quill embroidery, the split quills of peacock tail feathers are used to embroider leather purses, handbags, and other leather goods in an artistic, handcrafted process. It was most important in the second half of the 19th century in the decoration of traditional costumes, especially those worn with leather pants. This craft was particularly widespread in the Alpine region of southern Germany, the Tyrol, the Salzburg region, and the Salzkammergut. Lederhosen made using this technique could be worth as much as a horse (which is comparable to the price of a small car today, and in fact, trousers made today can fetch similar prices). Such traditional clothing was a considerable status symbol. Today, only a few craftsmen still master this skill, but in times when wearing traditional costume is fashionable, they are sought-after specialists.

tanning

Tanning is the process of converting raw animal hides into leather. In a tannery, tanning agents are used to stabilize the skin structure and thus produce leather. Once all the tanning steps have been completed, the leather is ready for dyeing and takes on its final appearance. Wood dyes such as redwood, bluewood, or yellowwood are applied and brushed in. There are two types of tanning: chamois tanning and chrome tanning.

Suede tanning

First, the oil (usually cod liver oil) is worked into the skin. The skin is then dried. This process is repeated until the entire skin is saturated with oil. Finally, the excess oil is washed out.

chrome tanning

Chrome tanning is the most common type of tanning. In this process, the animal skin is treated with chromium III salts, which cross-link and stabilize the protein fibers in the skin. First, the skin is preserved to prevent organic decay. This is usually done by salting the hides. Then, all meat residues and hair that are not needed for further processing are removed. The skin is then subjected to a lye bath to loosen the hair roots. By removing the hair side of the hide, an unpreserved and fine leather (blöße) is obtained. The leather is washed to finally remove the lime residues.

heart ruffle

A heart ruffle is a heart-shaped trim that is often used in traditional costumes. It gets its name from its heart shape.

deer leather

Deer leather is characterized by its extreme softness. The leather is also very strong and extremely durable. It is considered one of the highest quality types of leather. This leather is also impressive due to its comfort and breathability. Slight irregularities in color and grain structure are signs of the authenticity of this special type of leather.

linen

Linen is the fiber from the flax plant. Its special properties make it an exceptional fabric. Due to its texture, linen is lint-free, resistant to dirt, antistatic, and stain-resistant. Linen fiber is hard-wearing and durable, making it resistant to detergents, boiling and high temperatures. Dry heat, on the other hand, is harmful to the fabric, so it should still be slightly damp when ironed.

Loden

Loden consists of wool threads that are woven together and then felted with the aid of water and heat. Loden is water-repellent to a certain extent.

Nappaleather

Nappa leather is very soft, chrome-tanned smooth leather from calves or sheep with full grain. In the past, nappa leather was only used to make gloves and clothing. Today, nappa leather is considered to be smooth leather from all animal hides and is also used to manufacture other products. Nappa leather is soft, chrome-tanned smooth leather from calves or sheep with full grain. Originally, nappa leather was only the name for glove and clothing leather, named after Napa Valley in the USA. Today, nappa leather is the collective term for particularly supple smooth leather from all animal species and for various purposes.

Patina

Patina is the natural aging of the pants, which occurs through abrasion and oversaturation of fat. It has now become fashionable to allow leather pants to age “artificially.” In this process, the surface is treated with lye and acids and “artificially” greased.

Polyamide

Polyamide is used in textiles, particularly in rainwear, sportswear, nylon stockings, bras, and lingerie.

fawn leather

Compared to deer leather, fawn leather is much lighter and thinner, but this does not affect the quality of the leather in any way. This leather is also very soft and elastic, making it extremely comfortable to wear. Due to these properties, this leather is often used for women's leather pants.

cowhide

Cowhide is usually the raw material used for sturdy footwear. It has a solid structure yet is flexible. This makes this leather particularly suitable for brogues and other shoes.

silk

Silk is a fine fiber obtained from the cocoons of silkworms, the larvae of the silk moth. It is the only continuous textile fiber found in nature and consists mainly of protein. It is believed to have originated in China and was an important commodity that was transported to Europe via the Silk Road.

plate seam

The plate seam is a special seam that is most commonly found on knee-length trousers. The seam runs from the trouser legs in an arc across the buttocks, like a plate, and can be decorated with various embroidery designs.

Also known as a saddle seam or Salzburg plate seam, it found its way into Bavarian traditional costume. Previously, plate seams were only common in the Berchtesgadener Land region and Austria.

suede leather

Suede leather is a generic term for types of leather with a rough surface. The surface of this leather consists of the fibers of the reticular layer of the animal skin.

Walk

Walk consists of knitted wool threads that are felted using water and heat.

wool

Wool refers to the soft hairs of the coat (as opposed to the outer coat) of various animals such as sheep, goats, camels, and angora rabbits. Wool is a renewable raw material that has been used since the 4th millennium BC and remains highly significant to this day. Wool has a natural thermoregulatory property. Since woolen goods (in terms of their total volume) consist of up to 85% air and the fabric prevents convection, they are suitable as heat insulators. Colloquially, it is therefore said that wool “warms” well, although wool itself actually only stores the body's heat. Wool can absorb large amounts of water vapor, but its surface repels water. It can absorb up to 33% of its dry weight without feeling damp. It also wicks away moisture much faster than cotton, for example. Wool does not absorb dirt easily, and the elastic fibers hardly crease. It is very colorfast and flame-resistant. Unlike synthetic fibers, wool absorbs few odors (e.g., sweat) and has a natural self-cleaning function—absorbed odors are released back into the air, and the wool smells neutral and fresh again after a short airing. It can chemically bind sweat and thus neutralize it for a long time. Wool tends to pill and can be perceived as uncomfortable or scratchy. This can be remedied by special treatments.

Goatskin

Goatskin is the most common type of leather. Leather made from goatskin is impressive due to its durability and flexibility, and is very light compared to other types of leather. This makes it particularly suitable for leather pants.